Day 6: Croyde to Barnstaple

This is the B and B where Tina and myself stayed last night. We always take a photo of the group each morning before we set off. This morning because we stayed in two different places I should be posting two photos.

But due to a technical hitch, by the name of Steve, I only have the one photo of the boys, taken outside the pub where they stayed.

The South West Coast Path was just across the road from the B and B so was easy to find. The wind had dropped but it was very damp and hazy.

The weather didn't deter the surfers who were out in force this morning.

We walked around the coast for a while before moving inland.

By the side of the path was this small cottage with a very appropriate name:
'Stress Free'

We emerged from the path onto a road close to this this small chapel. 

The chapel of St Anne was built in 1896 and  replaced an earlier chapel situated closer to the sea. The current chapel was intended as a chancel to a much larger church that was never built. The land belonged to the Christie family of Glyndebourne who had built their holiday home in Saunton in 1895 and planned a holiday village including Saunton Sands Hotel and Saunton Golf Club.

The chapel was surrounded by Spring flowers.

We turned down a lane opposite the chapel and then along a track towards Saunton Golf Course. No golfers in sight surprisingly as we crossed the fairway.

Walking on the flat brings a smile to all our faces.

The track took us alongside a military area.We had been warned to look out for red flags which would mean a detour around the area. Fortunately for us there were no red flags in sight.

Alongside the Military Area is the Braunton Burrows Nature Reserve which is one of the largest sand dune systems in Britain. Made up of crushed windblown shells, it has been stabilised by marram grass and patchy woodland and is home to over 400 species of flowering plants. A number of small mammals have also made their home here. It is recognised as a UNESCO biosphere reserve. The Burrows takes its name from the rabbits which for many years kept the vegetation in check. In the mid 20th century the rabbit population was decimated by the disease myxomatosis which led to the estate having to be managed by grazing animals. During 1943-44, the area was used as a training centre for over 10,000 American troops before the D-Day landings. The road running through the Burrows is still known as 'The American Road'.

A dilemma about whether we crossed the reserve or walked around the edge.

This is a wood carving of an otter on top of an information board. Not sure if there are any otters around here but the track we are on is also part of the Tarka trail. The trail is inspired by Henry Williamson's novel 'Tarka the Otter'. The book was based on real places and the 163 miles of the Tarka trail follows Tarka's journey through the northern part of Devon.

The track then brought us back towards the sea. We now had a long walk following the River Taw. The  tide was out leaving the boats stranded. The South West path continues along the other side of the river but to get there we have to walk a long way into Barnstaple where we will find a bridge to take us across.

The walk was along a grassy embankment

We followed the embankment in the area of The Marsh.

The information on the board explained the history of the marsh: For many centuries this area was a well grazed tidal salt marsh. It was reclaimed in 1815 through the construction of a massive embankment and a complex system of ditches and sluices to protect it from flooding. The original salt marsh creeks were incorporated into the drainage system and the drainage channels which criss cross the Marsh, provide a network of interesting freshwater habitat with a rich and varies flora and fauna. 

We followed the embankment until reaching a road at Velator Quay, built in 1853 as part of the marsh reclamation scheme. I was desperate for the toilet and was grateful and relieved to find there was a cafe just along the road. We decided to stop here for lunch. Not really hungry I made do with a delicious milkshake.

The next stage of the walk was along a disused railtrack. The railway line was in use from 1874 - 1970.

We passed the Royal Marine barracks at Chivenor which houses the RAF Search and Rescue base.

The old track has been paved which makes it hard on the feet.

The track seemed to go on forever.

Fortunately there were great views over the estuary.

A leftover from its railway days.

At last we could see the new bridge over the estuary. The Taw bridge opened in May 2007 built to reduce congestion in the town.

Tonight we were staying in Barnstaple so we needed to walk into the town.

This is the old bridge which we will be crossing tomorrow.

The old station building which is now used as a school.

The disused signal box.

The Long Bridge is the only medieval structure to survive in the riverfront area, although it has been altered numerous times over the years.

We were staying at the Old Vicarage which was a short walk away from the river.

A cycle route way marker.

Almshouses built in the 17th century.

We could see the church a couple of roads away so assumed the Old Vicarage would be nearby.















Soon we were at The Old Vicarage

 with its beautiful garden.

Look at this treat which awaited us in our rooms. Everything about this place was immaculate.



I


n the evening we walked back into the town and had an excellent meal and a few drinks at the Lush Restaurant. As there was no group photo at the beginning I thought I would finish the day with one instead. Not sure why Paul looks so manic. Too much cider perhaps!

Day 5: Mortehoe to Croyde

The weather forecast was not good for today with winds of up to 50mph predicted. The temperature had also dropped so an extra layer of waterproofs was needed. We had an early breakfast so we could be on our way by 8am and hopefully miss the worse of the weather.

Once we were back on the path we were sheltered by the high hedges.

We then needed to cross a couple of fields.

This field was full of frisky bullocks. We were all very nervous about crossing the field but I was petrified. The previous evening we had been talking about my fear of cows to some friends of Steve's who are dairy farmers. They live near by and had joined us for the evening. Ron told me I was quite right to be wary as he had been injured by one of his own cows without any warning.



With Ron's words ringing in our ears, it took us some time to get passed this herd! We tried to keep to the edge of the field but the cows just wanted to follow! I breathed a huge sigh of relief once we were in the next field.

We then had to walk through a static caravan site.  Didn't see that many people around but then it was still raining and very windy.

Once through the caravan site we had views of the sea again. Fortunately we would not be walking on the edge of the cliffs today.

We followed the path into the town of Woolacombe, a 20th century holiday resort with a fantastic sandy beach.

The town is popular with families and surfers.

I thought I had walked in a straight line but the wind was blowing me off course.

The beach was deserted.

As the tide was out we decided to walk along the 3 mile sandy beach instead of the path which follows the coastline above the beach.

The rain had stopped but the wind hadn't. I tried to capture the swirling sand around these rocks.

You can see how the wind is whipping up the spray.

Luckily we were all wearing boots so didn't get our feet wet crossing this stream on its way down to the sea.

We climbed up off the beach and had a lovely view back towards Woolacombe.

Steve was ready for a sit down but it was too exposed and too windy. From here we had to walk up and round the Baggy Point peninsula.

The wind was howling and living up to the weather predictions. We stayed together as a group just in case someone was blown over by the wind. Fighting against the wind, my eyes and nose were streaming and I couldn't see as much as I would have liked.

Above Baggy Point is this pole. We had no idea what it was so I needed to do a bit of research and found this explanation on the North Devon National Trust facebook page:
The Coastguard Pole on Baggy Point (which we are currently replacing) was an important tool for training coastguards. It was designed to mimic the mast of a foundering ship. Coastguards would fire rope at the mast, and then rig up a breeches buoy - a life saver ring on a pulley system like a zip wire. Stricken sailors would then climb into the ring and be pulled from the ship over the water and onto dry land by the coastguards. It was a tricky job, hence the need to practise on Baggy Point's Coastguard Pole.

Come back Jim!

The path continues right to the edge but we decided not to bother.

Once round Baggy Point we could see Croyde beach in the distance where our walk will end today.

Time to find somewhere to have lunch.

We found this very sheltered spot out of the wind.

Good job this notice was here as I would never have guessed what this was supposed to be.

We walked a bit further round the coast and then moved away on to a quiet road.

The road took us into Croyde where we were staying the night.

Interesting vehicle parked by the side of the road.

Tonight we were splitting up. Tina and myself  were in a bed and breakfast whilst the boys had rooms in a pub. Neither place could accommodate all of us.

We met up in the pub in the evening for a meal and I think Tina and I decided we had the better deal as the boys didn't have ensuite rooms.