Wednesday, 27 June 2018

El Camino: Ferrol to Neda

The rain had stopped, we'd pack our bags and were ready for the off. We had arranged (or rather Paul had) for our luggage to be transferred to our next place of call so that we didn't have to carry heavy rucsacs. We could enjoy the walking without any hassle. We always had a group photo using the timer, at the start of every day but I couldn't find anywhere to balance the camera so I am there but on the wrong side of the camera.
 Today was a short walk of just 10 miles and mainly on level ground so easy walking.

There was no more rain forecast, so we were looking forward to a pleasant walk today.




The busy centre of Ferrol - at rush hour! We went in search of a bakery to buy a sandwich or similar for lunch not knowing whether we would be able to stop at a suitable cafe enroute.





We went off the main route for a while but eventually found our first waymarker. These were essential and we were soon all on the lookout for the yellow arrows.



We followed the road out of the town taking us around the estuary. This art installation had me looking twice as I only noticed the feet at first and thought it was a man.
Many of the roads out of the towns were cobbled.










We had good views of the estuary for quite some time as we walked to the other side of it.


The cranes began a familiar siteit was just the angle of the view that changed.









At last a path off the roadway.


As you would expect on the route of a pilgrimage we past many churches but they were never open. Apparently one priest has to look after many parishes so it is sheer chance if they are open. We were hoping to get our credential stamped in the churches as we walked along but that seems highly unlikely now.
Ferrol is very industrial but not unpleasant. It was very nice walking beside the water for most of the morning.


I think these are called derrick cranes but not sure.


When we weren't by the water we were walking alongside the roads.





This is the monastery of St Martin of Xubia. Originally from the eighth century but rebuilt in the twelfth century. In medieval times it housed both  monks and abbesses which was most unusual. The community had to be disbanded due to the unholy behaviour of the residents. It was a shame that it was closed as it is famed for curious profane sculptures.
We walked slightly uphill from the church giving us a good view of the railway bridge which crosses the Ferrol estuary.









We now followed a dirt track which took us through an eucalyptus forest. Eucalyptus is common in this part of Spain and most of the forests we walked through were plantations of eucalyptus.


I'm happy to say we didn't have to cross this field even if the bull was tied up.



Here the waymarkers show an alternative route but we continued along the original route keeping close to the water.




We came across a couple of benches and decided to have some lunch and enjoy the view.


Just before we entered Neda, where today's walk would end we saw our next waymarker which was a bit special as it showed we had just 100 km to go.










Crossing the River Xubia into Neda.
The huddle around the maps. This is a familiar sight on all our walks as everyone seems to have a different opinion. As it happened the place we were looking for was just to the left of us. With the waymarkers at regular intervals we didn't actually need maps at all.















Neda is famous for its bread.


We had plenty of time to look around the town. It was Saturday afternoon - siesta time. Although I don't associate this cool damp weather with siestas.



I liked this sign above the cemetery gates ' Today for me, tomorrow for you.'



The graves were all very well looked after.

We did find one cafe open and enjoyed hot chocolate and churros.
A view of the town from the hillside.




I had a lovely view from my room in the pension.



It was an enjoyable day with easy walking. Everyone staying at the pension is walking to Santiago. There is a camaraderie amongst the walkers  but no doubt a much closer one if you are staying in the hostels along the way not hotels or pensions like us! However everyone is very friendly and whilst walking today everyone that passed us  greeted us with wishes of 'Buen Camino' .

Tuesday, 26 June 2018

El Camino - the beginning

Our walk to Santiago began very early on a Friday morning. This would be our fourth long distance walk together but our first venture abroad. The group is made up of Paul, Steve, Tim, Jim, Tina and myself. We had to leave the airport hotel at 3.45am to make sure we didn't miss the flight to Santiago. We booked the accommodation for this trip over a year ago and then had to wait until the flights were released a few months later before being able to book them so we made sure we weren't going to miss the flight. However,  due to a problem with some control or other we couldn't take off on time. It took a couple of hours for it to be fixed but the boys didn't waste any time catching up on missed sleep.


Our walk began in Ferrol, the starting point for the English route to Santiago. The town is situated at the end of the tidal river.  It would have been a small fishing village when the pilgrims arrived here by boat from England. Now it is home to one of the largest naval bases in the area. It is also the birthplace of the dictator General Franco.


There were a number of old narrow lanes throughout the town with a number of bars and cafes.




We wandered down past the palm trees to the marina.
It is from here that the walk begins.  Across the road is the office for El Camino and it was here we received our first stamp in our credencial (pilgrim passport). We have to have at least two stamps per day from different towns or villages to qualify for the Compostela.










These are the signs we will be looking for as we walk towards Santiago.







This shows the way we will be walking in the morning when we leave Ferrol.

We had our photo taken outside the office of El Camino before the heavens opened and we got absolutely soaked. We decided to go back to the hotel for a drink and get dried but unfortunately the bar was closed. Instead we bought some bread, cheese and wine from a local supermarket and had an impromptu meal in Paul and Steve's room.




A group of musicians began playing in the street below but it was so wet they didn't stay long. Tomorrow we start our walk and hope the rain will have stopped by then!