Day 8, Berat

After an early breakfast, four of us went to look at the Edward Lear Gallery which was due to open at 8am. We were almost ready to give up and go back when the door finally opened at 8.15. We needn't have worried as it only took us 15mins to look around the small gallery. Edward Lear (1812-88) is probably better known for his poetry than his art, but he was passionate about drawing and painting and became one of the leading natural artists in Britain focussing on exotic birds.

In the Autumn of 1848 he travelled to Albania as part of a long journey through Europe. He visited numerous towns and villages and wrote about his travels as well as painting what he saw along the way, many of which are published in his book 'Journals of a landscape painter in Albania' There were only three pieces of his work here in the gallery. As the gallery is named in his honour I had wrongly assumed there would  be many more of Lear's paintings on display.

These watercolour paintings of Berat are not originals as they are in private collections.

After the gallery visit we returned to the hotel to meet the rest of the group for a walk around the town and castle. This is a side view of the hotel with the dining are where we had breakfast at the top. 

 We visited the oldest mosque in the town which had the star of David on the entrance. Impressive on the inside

These buildings are from the latter half of the 18th century. It was a complex that included the King Mosque, a prayer hall and guest houses.

Painted, wooden carved ceiling.

Lots of evidence of woodworm. I hope it has been treated.

Detailed artwork adorned much of the woodwork.

The women's balcony

 The star of David on the doorway into a Mosque which is very unusual.

We then walked along the promenade and crossed the bridge. Another very warm day. 

Berat is known for its white Ottoman houses. This view of the town with all the windows gave rise to it being called the city of a thousand windows.

Mr D was waiting in the coach to drive us to the top of the hill to see the castle. It was more of a citadel which had numerous churches and impressive views.

The citadel dates mainly from the 13th cent and contains a number of Byzantine churches and mosques.

Again the frescoes were very impressive inside the churches.

We returned to the town and bought a cheese pastry from the local bakery which is a very popular snack here. It is made from what looks like filo pastry with cheese inside.

In most of the towns we have come across stray dogs. They were everywhere but they were all very placid and looked well fed. Those with a red tag in their ear meant they had been vaccinated. We saw them in the towns, villages, by the road side and even in the restaurants. I never saw people shooing them away only treating them kindly and affectionately.

 Afterwards I went back to the hotel as my ankle was killing me with all the walking over cobbled streets. After a rest M and C came over with a bottle of wine which we enjoyed on the balcony. The afternoon passed quickly.

In the evening we sought out a small restaurant above a hotel which had been recommended. Really good food although the wine was a bit rough. He said it was home made but I think the waiter meant local. It was a red wine that had been well chilled!

On the way back to the hotel we stopped to listen to a singer in the town square. Apparently she had represented Albania in the Eurovision song contest a few years ago. She was very popular with the locals who were all singing along and dancing. A great atmosphere.