Day 9 Kruje

 After breakfast I went  out on the balcony. It was a beautiful morning, so I sat there writing my journal until I saw the others gathering downstairs to get on the bus. 

We had about a 2 hour drive to the port of Durres, home to the largest amphitheatre in the Balkans. We hadn't travelled that far when there was a bang. A car had driven into the back of us. Not much damage but damaged it was and we couldn't move until the police had assessed the situation. 

We got off the bus and I went into a local supermarket next to where the accident had taken place. It turns out that the man who owned the supermarket had lived in England just a few miles from where I live. He returned to Albania to buy the supermarket with his brother and although it is long hours and hard work it seems to be going well for them. He told me that sorting out the accident would take some time and I might as well go to the beach. I didn't even realise we were close to the sea. So I went for a quick look.

It was a lovely soft, sandy beach and looked much better than the one we swam from the other day. When I mentioned this to Ed he said the water quality was very poor. Maybe it was or maybe it wasn't.

I returned to the bus to find a long traffic jam behind us with drivers getting very frustrated. It took about an hour and a half to sort out the paper work. Each one of us had to sign a disclaimer to say we hadn't been injured before we could be on our way.

We finally reached Durres with its 15th cent Venetian tower. The  Tower was built for artillery purposes close to the sea.

The amphitheatre was built at the beginning of the 2nd cent Ad. It is estimated that it could hold 15 to 20 thousand spectators. Slave owners would watch their slaves fight other gladiators or beasts. The amphitheatre was discovered in 1966.

It did seem strange to have these modern buildings above the amphitheatre. I can only assume that it was whilst excavations during other building work that this ancient monument was discovered.

There were tunnels beneath the seating areas of the amphitheatre.

Passed a few pomegranate  trees as we walked to the seafront. 

We went for a stroll along the promenade 

It was a rocky beach so no good for swimming. After picking up a sandwich and an ice cream it was time to get back on the bus for a couple of hours driving to our final destination.

We were staying at the Hotel Panorama in Kruje for our last night of the trip. Tomorrow we will all be driven to the airport in the capital Tirana for our flight home. The hotel is perched on the top of a hill with terrific views over the valley.

As soon as I had taken my luggage up to my room I went downstairs and out into the bazaar.

There was nothing I wanted to buy and the cobbled street did not make for comfortable walking.

After wandering the length of the bazaar I went back to the hotel.

I was feeling exhausted and the thought of walking down the cobbled street again was just too much. So I opted out of going with the others to the castle and the museum. Instead I went up to the rooftop pool. It had had all day to warm up in the sun so it was ok. I found it refreshing and then I lay on a sun lounger for an hour or so before returning to my room.

In the evening we all met up in the hotel restaurant for a final meal together and to reflect on the trip. I had thoroughly enjoyed my visit to Albania. The scenery was spectacular and the hotels were of a much higher standard than I expected. The food was delicious, cheap and fresh and the people very friendly. What more could you ask for.

Day 8, Berat

After an early breakfast, four of us went to look at the Edward Lear Gallery which was due to open at 8am. We were almost ready to give up and go back when the door finally opened at 8.15. We needn't have worried as it only took us 15mins to look around the small gallery. Edward Lear (1812-88) is probably better known for his poetry than his art, but he was passionate about drawing and painting and became one of the leading natural artists in Britain focussing on exotic birds.

In the Autumn of 1848 he travelled to Albania as part of a long journey through Europe. He visited numerous towns and villages and wrote about his travels as well as painting what he saw along the way, many of which are published in his book 'Journals of a landscape painter in Albania' There were only three pieces of his work here in the gallery. As the gallery is named in his honour I had wrongly assumed there would  be many more of Lear's paintings on display.

These watercolour paintings of Berat are not originals as they are in private collections.

After the gallery visit we returned to the hotel to meet the rest of the group for a walk around the town and castle. This is a side view of the hotel with the dining are where we had breakfast at the top. 

 We visited the oldest mosque in the town which had the star of David on the entrance. Impressive on the inside

These buildings are from the latter half of the 18th century. It was a complex that included the King Mosque, a prayer hall and guest houses.

Painted, wooden carved ceiling.

Lots of evidence of woodworm. I hope it has been treated.

Detailed artwork adorned much of the woodwork.

The women's balcony

 The star of David on the doorway into a Mosque which is very unusual.

We then walked along the promenade and crossed the bridge. Another very warm day. 

Berat is known for its white Ottoman houses. This view of the town with all the windows gave rise to it being called the city of a thousand windows.

Mr D was waiting in the coach to drive us to the top of the hill to see the castle. It was more of a citadel which had numerous churches and impressive views.

The citadel dates mainly from the 13th cent and contains a number of Byzantine churches and mosques.

Again the frescoes were very impressive inside the churches.

We returned to the town and bought a cheese pastry from the local bakery which is a very popular snack here. It is made from what looks like filo pastry with cheese inside.

In most of the towns we have come across stray dogs. They were everywhere but they were all very placid and looked well fed. Those with a red tag in their ear meant they had been vaccinated. We saw them in the towns, villages, by the road side and even in the restaurants. I never saw people shooing them away only treating them kindly and affectionately.

 Afterwards I went back to the hotel as my ankle was killing me with all the walking over cobbled streets. After a rest M and C came over with a bottle of wine which we enjoyed on the balcony. The afternoon passed quickly.

In the evening we sought out a small restaurant above a hotel which had been recommended. Really good food although the wine was a bit rough. He said it was home made but I think the waiter meant local. It was a red wine that had been well chilled!

On the way back to the hotel we stopped to listen to a singer in the town square. Apparently she had represented Albania in the Eurovision song contest a few years ago. She was very popular with the locals who were all singing along and dancing. A great atmosphere.